厨师偏向葡萄酒

October 31, 2013

Does tradition trump taste when it comes to craft beer?

美国是啤酒最初的啤酒民族。在美国，当葡萄酒和烈酒的销售结合时，他们只是匹配总啤酒销售。很多可归因于工艺啤酒的生长，由小型和独立生产者制成。这些完整的味道，多样化的工艺啤酒也是厨房和餐桌的惊人和多功能的元素。所以知道这一点，为什么不再烹饪机构和厨师，配对和教学关于工艺啤酒？

I understand that change is slow, especially when history and habit are involved, but I think it’s time to peel back the layers of this culinary conundrum, now that craft beer has a strong hold on the American palate. Progress has been made (see below), but as beer lovers have likely been wanting to point out for thousands of years, we are far from a place where there is equal culinary treatment of all fermented beverages.

今天，我可以兴奋地和真实的国家制定工艺酿造啤酒帮助啤酒在餐桌上收回其位置。然而，虽然在美食家世界中有群体认识到这一点，但是太多了，而且我不确定为什么。肯定的美食家，调酒师和厨师互相交谈？

Here are a few things we know for sure:

• Students entering the culinary world are seeking more in-depth beer education.
• 啤酒学校is a top-visited page on CraftBeer.com.
• In the National Restaurant Association’sWhat’s Hot in 2013-Alcoholsurvey results, beer was involved in six of the top 20 trends. Interesting to note that beer pairings came in at 11, while wine pairings didn’t even make the list.

Craft beer is a hot topic people! So hear me roar, this is my rally cry to the foodie universe:It’s time to put craft beer on equal footing with wine and spirits in terms of education and emphasis in the culinary world.

I’m not the only one who feels this way. Brandon Hernandez, journalist, editor for Zagat Survey and a communications specialist for Stone Brewing Co., mused about this very topic in “精酿啤酒:美国最Underexamined烹饪Component?” Here are a few of my favorite things he had to say:

“凭借阳光下的所有成分的所有这一成分的所有这些都拥抱，为什么这么少的这个国家的厨师彻底探索了广泛和美味的工艺啤酒世界？...为什么不挖掘工艺啤酒，饮料比酒或烈酒降低的饮料，其款式和可实现的味道元素更广泛，更多的是提供比上述饮料的味道更多？“

听到，听到布兰登！作为过去十年来，工艺啤酒的销售的销售销售的最优秀的问题已经达到了每年九个百分点的平均速度。

Wine vs. Craft Beer

对于我的冰饮酒朋友，我喜欢说工艺啤酒拿起葡萄酒离开的地方。葡萄酒的配对属性是酸度，水果味，矿物成分，单宁和酒精。当与食物配对时，葡萄酒的酸度平静脂肪和盐，因此食物口味亮亮。

Craft beer also has varying acidity levels and hop bitterness to calm food’s richness and residual sugar. But, it has additional attributes that take pairing potential further, including carbonation that scrubs the tongue and gets it ready for the next bite, hop flavors, malt flavors, advanced yeast flavors, mineral components, tannins and alcohol to boot! Thirsty yet?

Champagne vs. Craft Beer

Fact: The amount of craft beer produced for the American marketplace in 2012 was over 100 times greater than the amount of champagne shipped to the U.S. Based on what I see, even amidst today’s local food movement, craft beer does not get as much play as champagne does in the culinary world.

To me, champagne is like the craft beer of the wine world. Not only is it on the high end of its beverage category, but just like beer, it has the pairing plus of carbonation that acts as a palate cleanser.

I think a lot of champagne’s popularity lies in the pizzazz, presentation and prestige of the beverage. It is viewed as a treat, and often saved for special occasions. I’m not here to bust any bubbly-lover’s dreams, but many craft beers have corks and cages too!

是的，我是一个热心的啤酒爱好者，他应该认识到白葡萄酒的泡沫泡沫饮料的历史和传统，但一个女孩可以梦想，对吗？我希望有一天潮汐会转身，任何与啤酒过去的烹饪柱子都会像焦糖酱一样融化。希望今天的厨师识别并分享工艺啤酒带来厨房的惊人可能性是如此疯狂吗？

Spirits vs. Craft Beer

Due to the high ethanol (alcohol) levels that dominate most cocktails and distilled spirits, my experience is that it’s very difficult to pair these beverages based on the intensity factor. The higher ethanol levels simply barrel over most food flavors. Additionally, food with heat clashes with higher alcohol beverages, like oil on fire.

在Craftbeer.com中描述的啤酒风格中Style Finder,平均含量为5.9%。相比之下,the average wine ABV at 13.6 percent, and the average distilled spirit at 80-100 proof (40-50 percent ABV). When you pair a higher alcohol beverage with a hot, spicy food, the alcohol literally opens up the pores on your tongue, making you even more sensitive and receptive to the heat. The big pairing takeaway here is that craft beer is a natural fit with spicy food due to its lower ABV, plus it has a calming effect on heat thanks to the beverage’s residual sugars. Sweet calms heat—it even rhymes!

Culinary Institutions With an Emphasis on Craft Beer

Now that we’ve compared the pairing prowess of craft beer to the other two main fermented beverage categories, let’s look at some of the progress we’re seeing in the culinary world. Several of the top American culinary institutions are making strides in their beer education. Kudos! However, from our research, it is clear that the majority of leading culinary institutions still emphasize wine over all other beverages. Here are a few examples that give us hope in the craft beer world:

约翰逊威尔士大学|普罗维登斯，迈阿密，丹佛＆夏洛特

Johnson & Wales University’s课程在啤酒上有不断增长的重点。他们的普罗维登斯，罗德岛校园甚至有一个试点酿造系统和酿造俱乐部，其中许多学生参加了。他们对啤酒饮料的越来越努力是非常令人鼓舞的。

肯德尔学院|芝加哥

今年早些时候，Siebel技术研究所, America’s oldest brewing school, committed to moving their campus to the facilities of肯德尔学院in Chicago. This is big progress, and will not only up Kendall College’s beer education game, but will also expose one of the world’s top brewing schools to a broader array of food-minded professionals.

来自新闻稿：“在未来几年，这两项尊敬的教育实体将合作，提供新的课程和计划，这些课程和计划专注于新兴的酿造和烹饪文化的综合，创造了一个新一代毕业生，将扩大烹饪艺术的几代人的视野来。“

美洲烹饪研究所|纽约海德公园;圣安东尼奥，St. Helena, CA& Singapore

尚未宣布，但确认，今天的小型和独立的工艺酿酒商之一正在与之合作烹饪美洲学院帮助他们进一步发展他们的啤酒教育课程，目前包括酿造：历史，文化和生产for those students pursuing their bachelor’s degree in culinary arts with a concentration in advanced wine beverage. In addition, the Hyde Park location has plans to add a brewing system.

Assistant Professor John Fisher said,“We’re building a 3- or 5-barrel system into the Student Recreation Center. Right now we have a class on sake, mead and cider production; with the addition of the brewery we’re designing more courses to take advantage of the new technology.”

Cheers to these leaders, and thank you from the bottom of this beer-lover’s heart! Here’s to the continued embrace of craft beer from the foodie world and its educators. My hope is that the food world evolves to a place where taste truly does trump tradition.

这篇文章的其他研究由Claire Chastain，Brewers Association Craft Beer计划实习生提供。